Habotai is the simplest silk weave: a plain over-under structure with no twill, no satin, no texture. It is the fabric that most people picture when they think of silk. Light, smooth, with a soft sheen that is not reflective. It has been woven in Kyoto since the Heian period, though the looms are now mechanical rather than hand-operated. The weaver we work with in Nishijin has been producing habotai for four generations.
What momme means and why 12 is the right weight for a slip ¶
Momme is the traditional Japanese unit for measuring silk weight. One momme equals 4.34 grams per square metre. A 12 momme habotai weighs about 52 grams per square metre. This is light enough to drape without stiffness but heavy enough to hang properly and not cling. Lighter habotai (6-8 momme) is used for scarves and linings. Heavier habotai (14-16 momme) is used for blouses and structured garments. 12 momme is the weight that works for a slip that is meant to drape over the body without revealing it.
The Nishijin weaver and how we found them ¶
Nishijin is a district in northern Kyoto that has been associated with silk weaving since the fifteenth century. Most of the remaining weavers there produce fabric for kimono. The weaver we work with is one of a small number who also produce plain habotai for garment use. We found them through a fabric agent in Kyoto who knew we were looking for a domestic silk source. The first sample arrived in 2020. We have been ordering from them twice a year since.
How the fabric is dyed ¶
The habotai for the Daikanyama Silk Slip is dyed after weaving, not before. This is called piece dyeing, as opposed to yarn dyeing. Piece dyeing gives a more even colour and allows the weaver to produce undyed fabric that can be dyed to order. The champagne and pale grey colourways are both piece-dyed. The champagne is a warm off-white with a slight yellow undertone. The pale grey is a cool mid-tone that reads as silver in certain light.
Why we do not use Chinese habotai ¶
Most habotai available at commercial prices is woven in China, where the silk industry is larger and the fabric is cheaper. We tried two Chinese habotai samples in 2020 before finding the Nishijin weaver. The Chinese samples were fine fabrics, but the weight was inconsistent across the bolt and the dye uptake was uneven. The Nishijin fabric is more expensive and the minimum order is smaller, which suits our production volumes. We are not making a political point. We are making a practical one.
Caring for the Daikanyama Silk Slip ¶
Everything in the silk care guide applies. Cool water, pH-neutral detergent, flat drying away from sunlight. The champagne colourway is slightly more vulnerable to yellowing if stored in direct light for long periods. The pale grey is more forgiving. Both colourways can be steamed back to smoothness after travel. The slip is designed to be worn regularly, not kept for special occasions. A piece that is worn and washed regularly stays in better condition than one that is stored for months at a time.
The Daikanyama Silk Slip is available in champagne and pale grey. If you have questions about the fabric or the fit, write to us at us.