Calais lace is made in a single town in northern France, on a specific type of loom called a Leavers loom, using a technique that has not changed significantly since the early nineteenth century. It is not the most efficient way to make lace. It is slow, the looms are old, and the people who know how to operate them are a shrinking group. But the fabric it produces has a quality that machine-made lace from faster processes does not replicate.
The Leavers loom and why it matters ¶
A Leavers loom interlocks threads in a way that creates a stable, three-dimensional structure. The threads twist around each other rather than simply crossing, which means the lace holds its pattern under tension without distorting. This is why Calais lace stretches evenly and returns to its shape after washing, while cheaper lace made on Raschel machines tends to pull and distort over time. The difference is visible under close inspection and felt immediately when you handle the fabric.
The floral repeat in the Lyon Lace Bralette Set ¶
The lace in the Lyon Lace Bralette Set has a fine floral repeat that was designed in the 1970s and has been in continuous production since then. At arm's length it reads as texture. Up close it is a small, precise pattern of leaves and open flowers. We chose it because it is subtle enough to work under clothing and detailed enough to be worth looking at on its own. The lace is sourced through a distributor in Lyon who works directly with the Calais mills.
How to identify quality lace ¶
Hold the lace up to light. In good Calais lace, the pattern is consistent and the threads are even. There should be no loose ends, no areas where the pattern breaks, and no visible joins. Stretch it gently in both directions. It should return to its original shape without distortion. Cheap lace will show uneven tension and may have a slightly plastic feel from the synthetic binders used to stabilise it.
Caring for lace lingerie ¶
The same principles as silk apply: cool water, pH-neutral detergent, no wringing, flat drying. Lace is more vulnerable to snagging than plain fabric, so a mesh laundry bag is worth using even for hand washing. Store flat, not folded tightly. The Lyon Lace Bralette Set has survived a year of regular washing for at least one of our customers, who wrote to tell us so. That is the best care guide we can offer.
Why we use Lyon-sourced elastic ¶
The elastic in the Lyon Lace Bralette Set is sourced from a small workshop in Lyon that makes elastic specifically for lingerie. It is softer than standard elastic, with a lower compression ratio, which means it holds without digging. It is also dyed to match the lace rather than being a standard colour. This is a small detail that most people will not notice consciously, but it is the kind of thing that makes a garment feel considered rather than assembled.
Calais lace is one of those materials where the history and the quality are genuinely connected. If you have questions about the Lyon Lace Bralette Set or about lace care, write to us at us.